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Remove this fuel return pipe along with the second pipe next to it |
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Remove this valve |
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Remove the vacuum pipe leading into the air distribution valve |
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Remove the valve by releasing this clip |
Clutch Master cylinder replacement
OK - so I noticed that I was slowly loosing brake fluid over a few weeks at a time (Brake fluid warning would come on). After I checked all brake unions, I checked in the drivers footwell, and found the tell-tale signs of a failing clutch master cylinder - fluid leaking down into the footwell.
This is the procedure I followed to replace it. I also replaced the blue fabric feed hose as a matter of course. The whole procedure was technically very simple but was very, very fiddly!!
I replaced the cylinder, working completely from above (apart from bleeding!) and without removing any braking components. Also, I managed to keep the fluid in the reservoir so there was no need to bleed the brakes. As well as a new cylinder, you will also need a new blue fabric hose (about £20 from OPC).
1. Remove the top air cleaner assembly and intake tubes. The air filter can remain in place. Also, remove the air valve and the two fuel return hoses.
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2. Next job is to clamp the blue fabric hose that runs from the base of the reservoir to the clutch master cylinder. Once properly clamped, it can be cut. There will be some minor spillage here so put plenty of fags beneath it.
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3.Now you should be able to have a clear view of the nut that holds hydraulic pipe into the rear of the master cylinder. It's a pretty tight squeeze, but you should be able to get a small spanner (12mm) down there to undo.
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4.Remove the drivers parcel tray and move the seat back as far as it can go. You should be able to get a clear view of the master cylinder. Remove the rod that attaches to the pedal (small plastic clip to undo at the end) and remove the two 13mm bolts. Remove the plate and two spacers. The master cylinder should now be free.
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5. With a little dexterity and patience, the master cylinder should be able to be removed from above. This is a very confined space and it takes a lot of wiggling, pulling and twisting to get the b***tard to come out!
6. I bought my new master cylinder from ECP for £65 and noticed that the new rod was shorter than the old one. I just used the old rod instead. I also used clips to attach the new fabric hose to prevent it blowing off when I use a power-bleeder (good advice - thanks Marton!)
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7. I have read about two methods for getting the new cylinder in place; the first is to use two studs inserted into the bolt hole to help alignment, and the second is to tie two lengths of 3/8" cord through the holes to pull the cylinder into place. I first tried the stud method. I found that with the studs inserted, it prevented the cylinder from being manoeuvred into place. I then tried the cord method which worked a treat. Once the cylinder was in about the right place, I used a long screwdriver to align the assembly with the hole from the footwell and then pulled on the cords - voila, it slipped into place perfectly. This step took about 2 hours!!!
8. Once bolted in, the hydraulic cable can be bolted back in again. Now you can remove the short clamped length of hose and connect the new hose. If you're quick, you shouldn't loose much fluid at all - but just in case, top up the reservoir to the brim.
9. All that is needed now is to bleed the clutch system. I discovered that it is impossible to bleed the system unless you remove the clutch slave cylinder and push in the rod all the way. This is mentioned on many sites, but I did not realise how imperative this step is.
10. Reconnect the clutch rod. It needs to be attached and adjusted so the slack is removed. Then rotate it one further turn (to tighten even more) and lock it with the lock-nut.
11. After checking for leaks, and bolting everything back up, take it for a drive and check that the synchros aren't graunching. If they are, further bleeding is needed.
Job done!
